We got up early this morning to meet our tour guide at 8:45. I had chosen Navajo Spirit Tours because the research said that they were particularly good with Navajo culture and all the guides are Navajo. I also talked with the company owner and I liked what she said about special features of their tours. Joe is getting all cleaned up for another day in the wild west.
I knew the vehicle would be an open air truck, but was not sure how I would like that. Knowing it was the best way to see the terrain, I still wondered if this cowgirl could handle it. It was great; like riding a bucking bronco!
Our guide, Larry, standing next to Joe, was a likable guy with a wealth of information about his people and the land. He is a descendant of a medicine man and he shared several stories related to healing people with herbs.
He drove us to the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park which is about 1 mile from our campground. He picked up other tourists at the View Hotel, the only hotel in the Park. From there we hit the road and what a road it was! I would NOT recommend taking your car over this rode.
Photographing this beautiful country has been challenging. Look at the difference between these two pictures. Getting the shot at the right angle and position of the sun can make a great picture or an ordinary one. Larry, our guide, joked that the Navajo called this formation the John Wayne. It is really called the Three Sisters.
Some people might say there are just a lot of big rocks in Monument Valley, but if you understand the Navajo life and history, as well as the geological forces that created these forms, you have a better appreciation of this place.
At one of our viewpoint stops, there were several Indian vendors , so once again, I got to admire their stunning jewelry. I prefer buying from the roadside artists, because the price is usually better and I like to promote private enterprise!
The rock formations are mostly sandstone but they contain other minerals like zinc. As with all the other places we've seen, Grand Canyon, Bryce and Zion, the height of the mountain or plateau is caused by an uplift from volcanic action below the earth. Once the uplift of the mountains occurred then the rain, wind and snow determined the size and form.
The picture on the right is called The Totem Pole. For the movie, "The Eiger Sanction", Clint Eastwood trained for a mountain climb by practicing on The Totem Pole.
Our next stop was one Joe and I were really anticipating. We would get to meet a 99 year old Navajo lady who is still making rugs. She works inside this Hogan, located on her property in the Tribal Park. Hogans are maintained for ceremonial uses today, not as living quarters. Navajo people always enter a building in a clockwise direction - one of those little- known aspects of this culture!
Meet Susie Yazzie. She is the matriarch of a seven generation family. She speaks very little English, but her smile says it all. I just enjoyed being around her and listening to the stories about family life that Larry shared with us.
In this picture she is trying her best to explain to me what she is doing. I would smile and nod and then she would smile and nod. She even brushed my hair with some buffalo grass. Soooo sweet!
Larry is showing us how a baby carrier was made. If the baby was a boy, the first strap is threaded from the left side because that's how he would hold a bow. If it is a girl, it is threaded from the right because that is how she will hold her wool for weaving.
Joe checked out the construction of the Hogan. It is made of fir and some pine. No nails are used. The wood pieces are laid in such a way that the pressure from the top logs hold the bottom ones in place. Clay is used to seal the joints. If you mix the clay and water and place it into the joints to dry, on the hottest day of the summer, it will last for two years.
Most Navajo homesteads include a Hogan, a modern house
and a corral for animals.
Our next stop was to see the arches.
Larry took us to an interesting rock formation that forms a perfect amphitheater. He stretched out on the rock into a reclined position and had us do the same.
He had us lie back, look up at the sky through the opening above us, then close our eyes. Then he sang for us in his native language. His voice was mellow, but strong, humble yet proud. The sound echoed off the surrounding rock and I felt so peaceful, almost euphoric. One characteristic that I've noticed in all the Navajo people we've met and talked to, is their contentment! They are satisfied with their lives, proud of their culture and pleased when people want to be a part of that. Larry made us feel like a part of his world.
I mentioned earlier about the blending of the architecture with the landscape. On the top of this hill is the View Hotel. You can barely tell it is a manmade structure.
The adobe orange of the rocks and ground are
accentuated by touches of green.
Our tour lasted about three hours and though my body was ready to rest, my soul wanted more.
I experienced a Navajo sunrise.
1 comment:
If you enjoy the Southwest and the Navajo culture, pick up one of Tony Hillermans who-done-it's. Excellent tales revolving around the Navajos.
Enjoyed your beautiful pictures.
See you soon:
Ed & Carol
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