Wednesday, August 31, 2011

August 31, Monument Valley, UT

Heading into Monument Valley - hints of what was about to come.


As we drive on, the sights become even more intriguing.
We get to Goulding's Campground and start our exploration.
Everything here is red like the color of Georgia clay; that's because of all the sandstone. The campground looked deserted, but by 5 or 6PM it was almost full. Every part of the built environment here blends in with the landscape and creates a unified, unspoiled, natural environment. Joe's shirt even blends in with the background!
They have cabins here too. My brother, Larry would love this.
Soon a thunder storm rolls in and we retreat to our RV.
This waterfall was not there 10 minutes ago! These storms are usually short-lived, so we still had time to go over to the Gouldings Lodge. A shuttle takes us from the campground to the Lodge area. There are several buildings on the Gouldings property.
There is the John Wayne Cabin. That's not him going inside, that's Cowboy Joe! If you didn't already know, John Ford produced many western movies out here, starring John Wayne. This cabin was the set for the movie "She Wore a Yellow Ribbon". Inside it was very dark and the mud floor was wet from the rain, but it was just what an old 1800's cabin might look like.
Although it is now a museum, this is where Harry Goulding and his wife Leone (nicknamed Mike) lived in 1928. Initially, they used tents for the trading post, prior to building the present one. They had a unique relationship with the Navajo to the benefit of both. Goulding traded food, household necessities and livestock in exchange for rugs, pottery and jewelry.
This old gas pump was actually used to fuel the vehicles in the valley.
This was a shelter used for gatherings outside the trading post.
There's just no stopping Joe; he walked right up, hand on hip and said "Howdy partner".
There were several old stagecoaches.
The man on the left with the red shirt and cowboy hat is Jonah. He was our shuttle driver and was just brimming with information and legends of the Navajo. The fellow in the black shirt and cowboy hat told us his grandfather was in some of the movies filmed here.

We also watched two films in the theatre. The first one was a poetic, musical and graphic tribute to the land of Monument Valley and the other was the story of Harry and Leone Goulding.
As the sun set in the west, we rode back home to prepare for our grand tour of the Valley the next day. We love this place already!

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

August 28 - 29, Grand Canyon and Beyond

There are only two ways to get into and out of Zion Canyon – Hwy 9 from the East and Hwy 9 from the West. Since I had already experienced “high-way anxiety” coming in from the East , we decided to leave via the west or by river.(kidding) And what a lovely drive it was. I actually began to appreciate Zion even more as I watched the soaring heights of the mountains dissolve into plateaus.

The drive toward Grand Canyon , along Hwy 89 and Hwy 67, was my favorite drive so far. I realized the vastness of the Colorado Plateau . This plateau spreads across Utah, Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico; being able to get a glimpse of its enormity was pretty exciting.

This particular view is from the Vermilion Cliffs Highway. It's unfortunate that the haze was so heavy because it was a breath-taking vista with shades of pink, turquoise, green, red and blue.

We stopped at a pull-off to take a picture and found several Navajo Indians selling their handicrafts. This was my first, but not my last opportunity to shop for Indian made jewelry. The fellow here is Rickerly, a Navajo. He was so personable and informative; I almost spent my entire gift budget at his table. Nothing here said "made in China"!

What a surprise to see this landscape on the way to Grand Canyon. Somehow Joe and I both imagined that it would be flat, barren, rocky and treeless. NOT SO!
There were lush green meadows surrounded by mixed conifer forests. Sprinkled around were white-barked aspens, shimmering in the wind.
We were anxious to see what lay beyond.
And we were not disappointed. This was our first view of the canyon as we walked along the rim toward the visitor center.

Before going to the campground, we wanted to get information and maps. Inside the North Rim Lodge, which is next to the visitor center, I saw a long forgotten character from a children's book I used to read to my students - "Brighty of the Grand Canyon". I had forgotten that he was a real burro who lived and worked in the Grand Canyon from 1892-1922.
Brighty worked many years in the canyon carrying people up and down the mountain trails. He also carried buckets of water from a spring up to the tourists staying in the lodge at North Rim. He was patient with children and allowed them to ride on his back for hours. Brighty was the first to cross the new bridge at the bottom of the canyon, and he did meet Teddy Roosevelt.

View through the massive windows in the lodge.
We hurried on out the back, down about
3 flights of steps and out onto the rim.
Once I realized just how high we were (8,840 ft) and saw the drop-offs at the edge, I became not only hesitant but down right terrified. I did manage to walk out onto the observation ledge with Joe, but I didn't last long. I started loosing my breath and feeling sick. I couldn't even take a picture - it just made me too dizzy. I have an intense fear of heights. This was not for me!

So we headed on to the campground to get settled in; deciding that tomorrow, we would hike the 3 mile trail back to the Lodge and spend more time exploring.
The campground was a delightful surprise. There were Ponderosa pines, campsites were spacious, we had a fire ring and picnic table - all the luxuries of home; except no electricity and water. But we knew that beforehand, so our water tank was full and if necessary our generator would power the air conditioner.
Joe was a happy little camper! We even had our own small grove of aspens, that made the sweetest music when the wind blows through them. They actually shimmer - allowing the light to reach the lower leaves and preventing the upper leaves from getting too much sun. The flattened leaf stalk allows them to tremble. Some forests of aspens may appear crooked; the bending and flexing of the trees allow them to survive heavy snow falls in winter. No wonder they are a favorite with tree lovers!
Our next day we had a hearty breakfast and loaded up Joe's backpack with water, camera, rain jackets and snacks. This hiking thing requires a lot of planning. The path started out just fine, but within 30 min. we knew we were in for a challenge.
Our nice, casual walk started going up!
We stopped whenever we got too hot or winded. Took pictures, drank water or just rested and enjoyed the views.

We got to the lodge in time to enjoy a Park Ranger give a talk on the history of Grand Canyon and the Lodge. He was an excellent speaker and pretty entertaining.
Rumor has it that if you rub Brighty's nose it will bring you good luck. I just needed enough luck to get back up that path to the campground.
We lingered at the Gift Shop a while, walked around looking at the adorable cabins surrounding the lodge, and talked with folks sitting out on the back porch. But there was no postponing it - we had to hike back!
It was much more difficult going back. It was a little hotter and we were not as energetic as when we left this morning. But the views, even with the haze, were outstanding. The haze was caused by two things - smoke from forest fires, (some of them were controlled burns), and air pollution, mainly from Las Vegas. That just makes me furious!


A sweet young couple on the trail took this picture for us. This was about halfway back to the campground, so we were still able to fake a smile. We returned home, very tired, hot, muscles screaming and a new respect for hikers.

That evening a Park Ranger came by to invite us to the Campfire Program. She was so interesting and had lots of tips for our visit. Joe (pretends) to help her with the campfire.
After introducing all of us to Grand Canyon with its natural wonders AND inherent dangers, she began a story about an Indian legend. She had us all entranced with the story of how the People (Indians) transitioned from basket-makers to potters. Here she is doing a dance around an imaginary woman making a clay pot.
Then she had the audience join in making a clay object. What a great way to spend the evening!
My favorite part of the day - Sunset!

We both would have loved to stay a few more days and bask in the cool crisp air, but home is still a long way, so we had to leave Grand Canyon.

On our way into Grand Canyon, we had stopped at this Visitor Center at Jacob Lake to get info and such. On our way back out, I wanted to take a few pictures.

The Kaibab (ky bab) Plateau at an elevation of 8,000-9,000 ft. above sea level supports a variety of wildlife and plant life. Its like an oasis in the desert. Coyote, wild turkeys, mule deer and mountain lions call the Grand Canyon home. The Grand Canyon is located in this forest.
(The following may be too upsetting for young children - seriously.)
This particular mountain lion had become hostile and a nuisance to people. The Park authorities had to put her down. At the time they did not know she was pregnant; but they preserved her babies with her, forever.
This was a picture hanging inside the Jacob Lake lodge store. I thought it was sooo pretty. The Grand Canyon has sustained people for many centuries. The Havasupai, Southern Ute, Hopi and Navajo nations called this area their home and spiritual grounds for thousands of years.

What's the difference between the North Rim and South Rim? We didn't go to the South Rim, so I can't speak as an authority. But the North rim offers visitors solitude, awe-inspiring views, a slower pace, fewer crowds and the feeling of going back in time. It may not be as majestic as South rim, but, we loved that!

BEYOND
We drove back to Alt 89 toward Page, AZ. Another fascinating drive. From a distance I could see huge rocks around the base of a mountain. As we approached this area, I saw that several cars and an RV had pulled over. So I did too. I have learned that if several vehicles are pulled off the road, then there is usually something interesting to see - either a bear (not here), a moose (not here either) or something else.
This was a small area called Cliff Dwellers. Some people, long ago, actually converted some of these large rocks into dwellings.


A little later, we stopped and walked across the Navajo Bridge which spans the Colorado river. This shot is of the Navajo Interpretive Center located adjacent to the bridge. It was closed, so we didn't get "interpreted". But we did get to see one of those rafting expeditions that I've seen on National Geographic programs.

The river appeared very green, not a vibrant green but a muddy green.

So off we drove, around another bend, over another mountain, through the valley, and across the desert in search of the next amazing place.